Echeveria Pink Champagne: Origin, Description, and Care

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The Echeveria Pink Champagne is a rare succulent that was hybridized by Hyun Sook Lee, a Ph.D. researcher and plant breeder in Korea. Although it’s named ‘Pink Champagne,’ you’ll also find it in colors of white, red, green, and purple.

Succulent enthusiasts consider the Echeveria Pink Champagne a collectible because of its unique appearance. If you own one of these plants or plan to buy one in the future, there are a few important things you need to know about their care.


  • Family: Crassulaceae
  • Subfamily: Sedoideae
  • Tribe: Sedeae
  • Genus: Echeveria

The Echeveria Pink Champagne was born when Hyun Sook Lee took a percentage of Echeveria agavoides ‘Romeo’ and Echeveria laui, and hybridized them together. 

Succulent Description

This outstanding rosette-forming succulent comes in a plethora of colors, ranging from pale blue-green to silvery-grey, with shades of pink, purple, green, red, and cream. The intensity of the color varies depending on the plant’s stress level, growing conditions, and season.

During the late summer or fall, beautiful bright orange flowers rise above its wax-like foliage in a  group or cluster. As it matures, the Echeveria Pink Champagne can grow up to 10 inches in diameter. Its thick, fleshy leaves are typically 5 inches long and 1 inch wide.

Like most succulents, the Pink Champagne is a slow-growing plant

Your Ultimate Care Guide for Echeveria Pink Champagne

Pink Champagnes are fairly easy to take care of. With just a little bit of effort, your succulent will look its best all year round. You’ll especially enjoy the gorgeous flowers that bloom during late summer and fall. They’re certainly a nice addition to an existing terrarium or as a centerpiece in your home.


Pink Champagnes thrive in average summer temperatures of 65ºF to 70ºF. In cold temperatures or winter months, make sure to store it in places no colder than 50ºF. Anything above that might cause their plump, fleshy leaves to freeze and rot.

While they are, for the most part, fairly frost tolerant, only a few survive extremely cold for a length of time. In some cases, it may even trigger them to remain dormant throughout the entire season.

If you keep Pink Champagnes outside, it’s best to bring them indoors when fall comes around so your plants won’t sense the change of weather conditions.


Pink Champagnes can be placed anywhere in full sunlight. If you don’t have direct access to the sun, you can invest in a grow light to keep them healthy. They need to receive at least four to six hours of sun every day.

If you keep them inside, place them in an east or west-facing window as this is where lots of natural light passes throughout the day. Don’t lean them right up against the window as they may get burned by the concentrated temperature of the sun.


Wilting, shriveling, dropping leaves are the most common problems seen on Pink Champagnes, and these occur mostly due to poor watering habits. 

Similar to any other type of succulent, Pink Champagnes don’t have a universal watering schedule. Regardless, it’s best to regularly water them during summer and spring. While doing so, make sure that the soil is evenly moist to the touch, not soggy.

Pink Champagnes don’t sit well in wet soil for more than two to three days, so make sure not to overwater them. This can be prevented by making a hole at the bottom of the pot so any excess water will leak out. 

For indoor Pink Champagnes, don’t get water on top of the rosette leaves as it may cause them to rot if the water sits on them for too long. If you’re keeping them outside, it shouldn’t be much of an issue as they’ll dry out quicker,  but it might leave unsightly spots on the leaves’ waxy coating.

Make sure to use a spout watering can or a squeeze bottle when watering so you can control the amount of liquid you’re giving them. When the soil dries out, it’s time to water them again.


Plant your Pink Champagne in a well-drained succulent or cactus mix that has a pH level of around 6.0. If you don’t have a succulent mix available, you can plant them in equal parts sharp sand and all-purpose potting mix. Squeeze a handful of moist soil to test it out; if it crumbles apart when released, it should be okay.

Remember to change the soil of your Echeveria plant every two years, preferably during the warm season. Make sure the soil is completely dry before repotting. While doing so, remove any rotted or dead roots and backfill the pot with the appropriate soil, making sure you spread the roots once you transfer it.


When fertilizing, use a balanced fertilizer of 20-20-20 at about quarter strength on mature plants, with slightly less nitrogen on younglings. Alternatively, you can use liquid fertilizer diluted 2-4 times more than normal.

Fertilizer isn’t much of a continual requirement for Echeveria plants, but they can certainly benefit from the occasional boost.


When you pot Echeveria plants, it’s best to choose the smallest size possible. Anything slightly bigger than the root ball is ideal.

Overpotting Pink Champagnes makes it susceptible to root rot as the greater the soil volume, the more moisture it can hold. If you still decide to choose a large pot, make sure that it has a proper drainage system so the water won’t stagnate.


Succulents of the Echeveria family have a USDA Zone of 9 to 11, which are located in the deep southern half of the country and southern coastal margins.

Bottom Line

The Echeveria Pink Champagne is a beautiful rosette-forming succulent that’ll look amazing among other plants or even just by itself. Taking care of it is fairly straightforward; as long as you use the right soil, water it properly, and give it enough sunlight, your Pink Champagne will thrive and live for many years to come.

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